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| Sarah with her eyes on the prize. |
Showing posts with label Sarah. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sarah. Show all posts
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Trip Report - Mt. Baker
Sarah and I decided to fill up our (Canadian) Thanksgiving long weekend with a trip down to Mt. Baker. Usually a spring ski trip or summer climb, the moderate temps and good forecast gave us the confidence to head out for a climb up the Coleman-Demming Route - one of the more relatively low key on the mountain.
Monday, October 1, 2012
Race - 2012 Rubble Creek Classic
Sarah and I went to Squamish on Saturday night and stayed with my former roommate Nick. Sunday morning we got up exceptionally early and headed off in the dark to the Garibaldi Lake Trailhead North of Squamish. We met our friend Ed there at 6:30 and continued on to the Chekamus Lake Trailhead near Whistler.
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Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Race - Whistler 5 Peaks Trail Race
Sarah and I both attended the 2012 5 Peaks race in Whistler this weekend (actually on Blackcomb Mtn. due to snow conditions across the valley). The enduro category is the longer and more competitive distance at 10 km with 750 meters of elevation gain. Even after missing our alarm, we made it up to Whistler Village on time and caught the gondola up.
Monday, August 13, 2012
Trip Report - Wedge N. Arete Attempt
On August 12, 2011, I climbed the N. Arete of Wedge Mountain in a day by myself. Without realizing it, exactly one year later, Sarah and I set off to climb the same route. We got an early start from Squamish and left the trailhead around 6:30am. It took just two hours to get up to the lake where we changed into our boots.
Friday, July 13, 2012
Trip Report - Grand Teton
The Grand Teton is a 4197 meter peak near Jackson, Wyoming. Sarah and I started our road trip across the U.S. by stopping in Jackson for an attempt on the Owen-Spaulding route up the Grand. The O.S. is generally a scramble with several pitches of climbing up to 5.4 near the summit first climbed in August of 1898.
The Grand Teton from Grand Teton National Park.
We scheduled ourselves a leisurely two days to complete the climb. Day one would be the approach to set up a high camp on the flank of the mountain and day two would be the climb to the summit and the descent back to the valley, showers, and bison burgers.
Our first day in Jackson, we went for a short trail run around Jenny Lake and picked up our climbing permits from the rangers. We also checked out Skinny Skis and Teton Mountaineering to get a guidebook and climbing topo. After packing our gear, having dinner, and going for a dip in the stream, we headed to the trailhead to spend the night in the car.
Sarah cooking our pre-climb dinner. Evening looking on the Grand.
The approach day was tough with a long section of switchbacks in the trees and then more slogging up loose scree. We made it to a feature called The Moraine (3444m) and set up our tent in the rocks. We had a reasonable tasty Mountain House dinner of meat lasagna in a bag.
Sarah starting up the trailhead. A bear following us up the Grand. Turning into the meadows in Garnet Canyon.
Eric during lunch on the approach day. Sarah working her way up to the moraine campsite. Setting up camp. Cooking and eating dinner.
The next morning we started up a snow patch to reach the Lower Saddle (3535m) and made good time to the guide cabins. Above the Lower Saddle we struggled to stay on the route. I realized the best advice given to us was "stay on the arete" but we were lured into several gullies. We arrived at the Upper Saddle (4014m) despite some fairly exposed and difficult scramble sections. Sarah was rattled by the climbing and, looking up at the climbing required to finish the summit block, decided she prefered to descend. With a headache, I was inclined to agree. We descended to the Lower Saddle by down climbing the proper route.
Sarah taking careful steps up the snowfield. Looking back from the Lower Saddle. Harder scrambling on the route. Sarah scrambling. Grand Teton summit block. Highpoint photo. Shots of Sarah and Eric on the descent - getting tired.
We broke down camp and glissaded down the canyon in beautiful weather. The descent was brutal in mountain boots but we made it to the car and back to Jackson.
Hiking out Garnet Canyon.
Our stats:
- Highpoint: 4014 meters
- Vertical Ascent: 1942 meters
Gear notes for next time:
- A 60m single rope was good but find a really thin light one for next time.
- A thin puffy jacket was fine and a light sleeping bag is good.
- Bring a smaller rack.
- Ultralight crampons and axe would be better. We did not use crampons at all despite it being higher than normal snow.
- It would probably be pretty reasonable to do the entire climb in good approach shoes and even more to bring approach shoes and rock shoes.
- I hate instant oatmeal - time to stop bringing it.
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
An Ascent of Mt. Crumpit
We are still struggling with the weather here in Squamish. While we have had a few days of sun here and there, we are on record as one of the coldest wettest springs yet. This pretty much means less climbing and more running. Skiing has been non-existant since I left for Bamfield and since myBlack Diamond Drift skis started to de-laminate. They are on their way back to the factory to be replaced. In the mean time, I am anxiously awaiting my Dynafit Race Skis coming in the fall.
Training has been good as I build volume and run more. I have been hitting around 10 hours of running per week. I would like to supplement this with some cycling and a bit of strength training and then start working in some harder runs keeping volume the same. Training will be a bit tough over the summer as I am away for most of July and August. I think once we get back from Nepal and I have less going on, it will be easier to get on a structured plan.
Training summary for April, May, and the first part of June.
I haven't gotten out for any big adventures lately other than a solo ascent of Mount Crumpit - part of the Garibaldi Massif. Despite deteriorating weather conditions and battling dehydration, I managed the 33,100cm summit at 4:30pm. The summit should have provided views into the Squamish Valley far below and the Chief to the South however low lying clouds and torrential rains prevented any vistas. On the descent, I encountered steep slabs and decrepit fixed protection but made it safetly back to the Smoke Bluffs Chalet for hot tea and cookies.
Mt. Crumpit on Google Earth; Good weather to test the Eddie Bauer Sirocco Jacket; Summit surrounded in clouds; Collapsed bridge on descent trail.
Sarah and I are busy preparing our trail race and I have run a bunch of different course options. I think we have finally picked a good one that includes a decent amount of vertical, lots of trails, and some cool bridges. Plus no major creek crossings.
Covered bridges of Squamish; The Chief.
We are also getting ready to leave for our trip to Minnesota and Toronto on Thursday. We stop first in Kelowna where I am presenting some of my MSc work at a conference. From there we head to Jackson WY to climb the Grand Teton, then the Badlands for a trail run and finally Minnesota.
Monday, June 11, 2012
Comfortably Numb
Sarah at the start for Comfortably Numb.
Last year Martin, Alexis, and I ran in the Comfortably Numb Trail Race and loved it. The course follows a 22-km mountain bike trail from the Wedgemount Trailhead right into Whistler Village. Unfortunately, Sarah and I will be away for this years edition, so instead we decided to run it for fun on our own.
Sarah picking up speed on the single track. Me cruising along a wood bridge.
We parked the car in the Village and hitchiked our way north to the trailhead. The overcast skies and cool temps were perfect for running and we started off on the big initial climbs. The trail is generally well groomed single track with log bridges, rails, rock gardens, and some drops to keep things interesting. With all the rain, things are moderately muddy and we even hit some snow patches at the high point. My spikey X-Talon shoes were perfect for the trail - I am looking forward to racing on them!
Cool rock slabs at the highpoint of the day made for some cool pictures with nice views despite the clouds. Sarah tackling a steep bridge.
After navigating the confusing trails surrounding Lost Lake, we made our way back to the car and changed into fresh clothes. After I bee-lined to the ice cream shop for a hot fudge sundae, we wandered around the village on wobbly legs hoping that we could prevent the worst of the soreness.
Finished!
Stats:
22.43 km Distance
3:36.48 Time
846 m Vertical elevation gain
9.40 min/km Average speed
1473 calories burned
Google Earth map and elevation profile.
Sunday, April 22, 2012
Steep Skiing -NW Face of Mt. Matier
Sarah and I had plans for a two day traverse this weekend but got a bit scared off by the weather forecast. Instead, we decided to take advantage of Saturday (the more optimistic looking day) and try to get in some steep skiing along the Duffy Lake Road.
We left the car at 8:30 am and skinned up Cerise Creek and onto the Anniversary Glacier between Joffre and Matier. Several hours later found us at the base of the NW Face. We skinned as high as possible and then transitioned to bootpacking on a steep slope. Stopping at a sheltered rock just below the summit, we dug out a platform and switched back to skis.
Our run down the face was excellent with a nice layer of powder over firm snow. We continued down the entire length of the glacier and hit spring conditions partway down. The transition from powder to slush was quick with about 200 meters of scary crust. Below that, the rest of the skiing and the way out was on nice spring snow.
All in all, we skied 9hrs car-to-car, well over 1500m of vertical, and now we have the rest of the weekend to catch up on work and relax in Squamish.
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