Showing posts with label Climb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climb. Show all posts

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Misery

Misery in the outdoors usually revolves around four things. Cold, wet, tired, or hungry. Being one of the four is really guaranteed on any trip. Two of four is still not unusual, par for the course on any longer or more commiting trip. Three or four of the above is generally when you really start to rethink what you did to get yourself where you are.



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Solo aid climbing in the rain. A slow and methodical process with little protection from the elements. Pretty scarey as well.

That is not to say a trip can't get worse. Injury or other more serious complications can make a trip more than just miserable.



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Nick had a season ending injury when he fell and broke his heel. While he did seem to be capable of entertaining himself during the imposed house arrest, I suspect the immense amount of free time with no ability to climb or ski was at least a little miserable. He did manage to get out and leave the crutches behind for a bit of climbing.


Misery can be classified along what has been proposed the "Fun Scale". Fun can be broken down into three types:


Type I is true fun in the moment. A warm day at the beach, a good movie, a barbeque, or clean, safe climbing.



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Nick at the finish of a Ski Mountaineering Race. Hard work but fun during the race and rewarding to have finished. Hard to believe but very little misery involved.


Type II is something that is tough in the moment but afterwards, upon reflection, you know you enjoyed what you did. Most climbing and lots of ski touring falls into this category. You might be terriefied or exhausted during the activity but afterward you have no regrets.



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Sarah skinning up Cayoosh Peak along the Duffy Lake Road. Ski touring requires long efforts of hot sweaty work in a steep slippery skin track though wind, snow and even rain. The payoff comes on the descent where misery on the uptrack is forgotten.



Type III is true misery. You finish what you are doing with no intention of ever putting yourself through it again. Type III may be accompanied by a near-death experience. Luckily I can't think of any personal examples.



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Alexis with a bloody nose waiting for a ride after finishing a painfully slow ski traverse of the Garibaldi Neve with the BCMC. I asked never to be invited on a BCMC trip again.

Ice climbing is a relatively new activity for me. Luckily I have a good group of friends to follow. It also brings a new meaning to misery for me. Coastal ice is generally characterized by its wetness. Ice climbs obviously form where waterfalls exist in the summer. When lucky, these are totally frozen. Unfortunately every climb I did this year had water raining from above, along the surface of and underneath the ice. You have to deal with being cold and tired from climbing, not to mention scared of ice collapsing from underneath you or daggers falling from above, but you do it all while in the shower.


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Ice rarely forms in Squmish but when it does it is a treat to walk out of the house and climb. On this route, Alice on Ice, water was flowing steadily under the curtain of ice. Right after taking this picture, Nick who is climbing pulled his pick out of the ice and a spray of water shot out of the hole he created. He had to continue climbing though and got soaked in the process. Luckily, being five minutes from home meant being a bit wet was not an issue.


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Paul B led a particularly excellent climb on this dagger with torrents of water showering down. Nick and I followed, belayed safetly from above, in less that half the time he took and were completly soaked, so I can only immagine the discomfort leading this steep climb during a 55 minute ice-water shower.


The upside of any miserable day outside is that it leads to a renewed appreciation for the comforts of home. A burger, soda, and nap are all the best after a long hard day.


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Alexis in the car home from a 22 hour non-stop push to ski Mt. Rainier. 48 hours after the last time either of us had slept.



Monday, February 13, 2012

Rockies - Feb 2012

Sarah and I left Vancouver later afternoon on Wednesday after she got out of work and started driving towards Lake Louise. We made our goal of Revelstoke by about 10:30 and climbed into the back of "Chateau Eric" for the night.


Thursday morning we grabbed a quick breakfast in Revelstoke and headed up Rogers Pass where we had the first of our sunny ski days. We skinned up Grizzly Shoulder into the alpine and had a long powder run back to the car just before dark. Lots of other skiers had the same idea. After changing out of our boots we drove into Golden and found a motel for the night.



Friday morning we woke up early and headed into Lake Louise. We parked at the Fairmont Chateau and skinned across the lake toward the Victoria Glacier. We didn't get any fantastic skiing but it was a nice long tour with pretty awesome scenery. That night we headed out the Bow Parkway and scoped out Cirque Peak, our target for the next day. We had a cold dinner of spaghetti cooked next to the car and crawled in for a really chilly night. 




Luckily, after breakfast, the sun came up and thawed us out a little. We packed up and headed out to Cirque Peak. It was not a long distance to cover but the sun was baking and we were feeling the altitude. The final 600 meters of the peak were a loose scree scramble so we had to take our skis off and climb in crampons. We had lots of time to take a million pictures and eat some lunch. The ski out went reasonably fast and we got back to the car just before dark. We headed into Lake Louise for an awesome dinner and stayed at the Alpine Club of Canada hostel for the night



Sunday we got up and did a short trip, skinning around the lake and managed a quick ski run. We were both pretty tired so were happy to stay close to the car and take pictures. In the afternoon we explored the hotel and relaxed. 




Monday morning we slept in and started the Marathon drive back to Vancouver, making it home in incredibly good time.


1921 km - Distance Squamish to Lake Louise and Return
3000m -  Elevation of Cirque Peak

Saturday, January 21, 2012

January Ice

Nick and I managed to get in a few days of climbing during a brief cold snap. We climbed eight pitches in the Rambles along the Duffy Lake Road and a few days later it was cold enough to climb ice in Squamish.



Shannon Falls was still flowing strong so we got in three pitches nearby. After a break for tea at home, we were able to walk into the Smoke Bluffs outside our house and climb another pitch called Alice on Ice.




Now the warm weather is back and it looks like we willl have to do a bit more driving for good climbing.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Mt Baker


July 14

Mt. Baker

Camp on the Coleman Glacier
Summit!

Descending
Climbers still headed up
Hiking out